The bodies keep the score in Lviv

At the Lychakiv cemetery in the western Ukrainian city of Lviv the bodies keep the score.

Within its confines the more than 300,000 graves offer a tangled insight into the labyrinthine history of this eastern European city that even now goes by four different names.

There are Polish generals, mathematicians and philosophers; Ukrainian composers, theologians and playwrights; Soviet and Russian aviators, inventors and academics.

Most of the city’s Jews – in what was one of Jewry’s most important cities in eastern Europe – are buried in a different graveyard, but there are smattering of their number, as well as German and Czech notables.

Then there are the military graves: a whole section at the top of the hill is devoted to Poles who died fighting Ukrainian nationalists between 1918 and 1920, and another is set aside for those who fought against them.