Dan Jellinek

Taste test: British Charcuterie

issue 09 April 2011

Overall, we were a little disappointed at the quality of British offerings, but perhaps it’s not surprising given the newness of our charcuterie traditions. And, in the sparkling setting of Harrods’ new wine rooms, we did unearth a few treats

Panel:

Tilly Culme-Seymour, Deputy Editor, Spectator Scoff (tcs)

Dan Jellinek, Co-Editor, Spectator Scoff (dj)

Bruce Langlands, Director, Harrods Food Halls (bl)

Sudi Pigott, Food writer (sp)

CLASSIC CUTS

Deli Farm Charcuterie: Cornish coppa (£5.30/100g, www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk)

This was an odd combination of ‘perfumed, but salty’ (sp). ‘Chewy — doesn’t really melt in the mouth, taste lingers’ (bl). ‘Slightly pepperami texture, quite earthy’ (tcs).

Trealy Farm Charcuterie: lomo (www.trealy.co.uk)

‘Very oily, you can feel it on your hands’ (bl). ‘Flat’ (dj), and ultimately damned with faint praise: ‘Some oakiness, not universally disappointing’ (tcs).

Trealy Farm Charcuterie: coppa (www.trealy.co.uk)

Beautiful marbling, ‘looks the nicest’ (dj). ‘I really like the texture, peppercorns are good introduction, then you get good balance of fat and meat.

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