Taste test: British Charcuterie

Overall, we were a little disappointed at the quality of British offerings, but perhaps it’s not surprising given the newness of our charcuterie traditions. And, in the sparkling setting of Harrods’ new wine rooms, we did unearth a few treats

Panel:

Tilly Culme-Seymour, Deputy Editor, Spectator Scoff (tcs)

Dan Jellinek, Co-Editor, Spectator Scoff (dj)

Bruce Langlands, Director, Harrods Food Halls (bl)

Sudi Pigott, Food writer (sp)

CLASSIC CUTS

Deli Farm Charcuterie: Cornish coppa (£5.30/100g, www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk)

This was an odd combination of ‘perfumed, but salty’ (sp). ‘Chewy — doesn’t really melt in the mouth, taste lingers’ (bl). ‘Slightly pepperami texture, quite earthy’ (tcs).

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Trealy Farm Charcuterie: lomo (www.trealy.co.uk)

‘Very oily, you can feel it on your hands’ (bl). ‘Flat’ (dj), and ultimately damned with faint praise: ‘Some oakiness, not universally disappointing’ (tcs).

Trealy Farm Charcuterie: coppa (www.trealy.co.uk)

Beautiful marbling, ‘looks the nicest’ (dj). ‘I really like the texture, peppercorns are good introduction, then you get good balance of fat and meat. Delicious.’ (tcs). ‘Rather creamy, and pepper is subtle enough, adding a little bit of heat’ (bl). ‘Melts in the mouth’ (sp). FAVOURITE in this category – and OVERALL FAVOURITE.

Deli Farm Charcuterie: bresaola (£7.60/80g pack, www.delifarmcharcuterie.co.uk)

‘Saltier than their coppa, but flavour stands up to it more, maybe nice with a salty foccacia’ (tcs). But ‘too salty for me’ (bl), and hints of ‘shoe polish’ (sp) – not a good taste for charcuterie.

Dorset Charcuterie Company: bresaola (www.thepurbecklarder.co.uk)

‘Reminds me of those fruit strip sweets’ (tcs). ‘Peppercorns are the nicest thing about it’ (dj). Simply, ‘bizarre’ (bl).

GAME ON

Great Glen Game: Venison bresaola (£5.95/55g, www.greatglengame.co.uk)

‘Plastic, unpleasant, farmyardy’ (tcs). ‘So plastic, like eating a Barbie doll. Didn’t like the flavour’ (bl).

The Real Boar Company: Wild boar salami with sloe gin (seasonal, see www.therealboar.co.uk)

‘Strongly flavoured — you can really taste the gin’ (dj).