Switzerland: What makes Geneva tick

In a quiet backstreet in Geneva, a few blocks from the lakeside, there is a museum which will change the way you think about that watch upon your wrist. When I first came here, a few years ago, I must admit I wasn’t expecting much: a glorified salesroom, exit through the gift shop… I couldn’t have been more wrong. This isn’t a suave exercise in soft sell — it’s a first-class museum, with one of the finest collections of watches in the world.

Like all the best museums, the Patek Philippe Museum is a labour of love, not a clever sales gimmick. Most of these watches aren’t made by Patek Philippe, and none of them are for sale. The museum is only 15 years old, but it feels as if it’s always been here. Against all expectations, I was enthralled. I’d meant to spend only an hour here. Ironically, surrounded by precious timepieces, I lost all track of time. Last summer, I ended up passing through Geneva on another story. I made a detour just to go here again.

If you weren’t looking for this museum, you could walk straight past it. From the outside it looks like a private bank — expensive yet discreet. Once you step inside it feels more like a boutique hotel. The lobby is smart but understated. Two smiling women greet you at the door. The first exhibit is a historic workshop, with machines from the 18th and 19th centuries. A master watchmaker is hard at work, restoring antique watches. Thankfully, he’s used to being stared at. He carries on regardless.