Success problem

Another great Bordeaux vintage on the cards? Peter Grogan examines the unexpected problems created by never-ending success

The art of assessing the likely future quality of very young red wines by sniffing away at what are known as ‘barrel samples’ is a decidedly arcane one. I’m no good at it and I haven’t even been within spitting distance of Bordeaux during the current en primeur campaign for the 2010 vintage. This is where the leading châteaux effectively sell their wines as ‘futures’, long before they’re bottled, let alone ready to be shipped to customers. Nonetheless, even from here, I detect among the positive early reports something ineffable playing around the edges that seems suspiciously like the smell of fear.

Most popular

Steerpike

Reform aim to overtake Tory membership in five weeks

For most tillers of the sod, a great harvest is a cause for joy unconfined. But wine is very different from wheat or water-chestnuts.