Bruce Anderson

Stewed Siena

The young men awash after the Palio present no hazard to the visitor

issue 12 September 2015

The Indian summer was still fending off the mists and mellow fruitfulness. But the autumn term was about to begin; the season’s changes would soon be manifest. So it was a day for anecdote and recapitulation; for telling amusing August tales, behind which lurked deeper meanings.

A couple of friends had been to the Palio, as everyone should, once. I remember being surprised that several hours of mediaeval pageantry could hold one’s attention, which it certainly did: but more than once? No one would watch Psycho twice. I also remember being surprised that the young of Siena would spend weeks rehearsing: hard to imagine that happening here. The spectacle ends with a horse race: several circuits of the Piazza del Campo. It is excitable viewing. We were watching it from scaffolding on the south side of the Piazza. The locals got carried away; the scaffolding shook to such an extent that I feared collapse.

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