Simon Hoggart

Spectator mini-bar offer

The name of Robert Parker, the oenological sage of Maryland, is not often invoked by British merchants, who tend to sniff that he is too keen on overflavoured wines that lack subtlety and finesse.

issue 25 August 2007

The name of Robert Parker, the oenological sage of Maryland, is not often invoked by British merchants, who tend to sniff that he is too keen on overflavoured wines that lack subtlety and finesse. On the other hand, when he gives a wine an over-the-top rave, they often find they can swallow their disdain. Take this ‘First Growth’ Cabernet Sauvignon 2000 (4) from Coonawarra, made by the Parker Estate (no relation). ‘Stunning …a super wine …dark, opaque, ruby/purple coloured, sensational nose of wood, fruit and herbs … full-bodied, superbly concentrated, well-balanced, just beginning to unfold. Can easily compete with the best of Bordeaux and California.’

It is indeed a wonderful wine — rich, meaty, delicious to drink now but will keep for some time. Only 1,000 cases of the First Growth are made every year. And this week’s merchants, SWIG of west London — who gave us our second most popular Mini-bar ever earlier this year — is selling it at less than half its current price.

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