This week’s mini-bar is from a new company, titled in the modern fashion, FromVineyardsDirect.com. It’s been set up by David Campbell, who is the publisher of the Everyman Library, and Esme Johnstone, one of the founders of Majestic Wine Warehouses. They have made up a very short list — fewer than 20 choices, though this will no doubt increase — and offer them all online or by post direct from the growers. It’s impossible to compare prices precisely, since these vary wildly according to who’s selling, but David reckons he charges roughly 20 per cent less than you would pay other merchants. Virtually all their wines are French classics, and for this mini-bar offer I have chosen some splendid bottles from Bordeaux, Burgundy and the Rhone.
White Bordeaux, like Beaujolais and German wine, has suffered because of cheap stuff peddled in the past. Those of us of a certain age can remember feeble, flabby Entre Deux Mers, and how, as graduating students, we swore a solemn oath never to touch them again. Yet there are some lovely wines in the region. This Lafont Menaut 2005 is from Pessac-Léognan in Graves, close by the great and famous Haut-Brion, and it’s gorgeous: lemon, flowers and liquorice, very soft and silky. And unlike many white wines, it will continue to improve, becoming more intense over the years.
The Meursault ‘Flamoise’ 2004 is also excellent value at £16.75. It requires no introduction for Burgundy lovers: perfumed, nutty, a touch of vanilla, ever so slightly earthy, rich and satisfying — it does all that its famous name implies.
This Fourcas-Dumont from Listrac-Médoc 2001 has some age already, but will also acquire a greater richness. It’s excellent drinking now, though, being fleshy and velvety, with a whiff of cedar, blackcurrants and toast.
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