For some reason I like to have a theme for our mini-bar offers, concentrating on a particular country, region or grower. I couldn’t think of one this time, but I did want to bring back Private Cellar, one of my favourite merchants, whose small team seems to have pretty unerring palates and who can nose out excellent wines at good prices. I suppose, faute de mieux, I could call this offer Old and New Classics.
The first new classic is Dr Ernst Loosen’s Villa Wolf Pinot Gris 2006 (1) from the Pfalz area of Germany. This is unlike any German wine you have tried. For one thing it is not a Riesling. And it is stratospherically better than the thin, anaemic fluids sometimes made from Pinot Grigio (the grape’s Italian name). Instead it is rich and full and creamy. I served this to a friend. She burst into a huge, happy smile and exclaimed, ‘This is absolutely delicious!’ I have seen it a few times on the wine lists of the cannier London restaurants, except they ask three or four times our price of £6.96.
The older classic is a white Burgundy, a 2005 from the Domaine Matrot (2).
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