Are radical lesbians dictating what we can and cannot eat, through the offices of this very magazine? It would certainly seem to be the case. A year ago this month, Julie Bindel wrote on The Spectator’s website disparaging sourdough bread with even more venom than she reserves for her more usual targets, i.e. those men-lady people and er, men. What has happened since that vigorous diatribe is the gradual disappearance of sourdough from the shelves of our supermarkets, as if by official edict. Marks & Spencer used to be full of the stuff, but my two local stores no longer stock packaged sourdough and the same is true to only slightly less a degree with Waitrose. I will not bother mentioning any of the other supermarkets as I assume you are as unfamiliar with them as I am.
Anyway, Julie was absolutely right to assert that sourdough seemed almost to hold a monopoly on the bread counter – and it had long since pushed out focaccia.
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