Scoff out | 25 June 2011

LE RESTAURANT GASTRONOMIQUE Hotel Le Bristol, 112 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. +33 (0)1 53 43 43 00 lebristolparis.com by Jonathan Ray

Hotel Le Bristol’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a swanky spot and no mistake. It’s all thick-carpeted, wood-panelled splendour, with a regiment of waiters per table and a touch too much one-two-three-and-off-with-the-cloche for my taste, but please, please don’t be put off, for the food here is outstanding with a capital O.

It’s President Sarkozy’s favourite spot (the Elysée Palace is almost next door), and it’s no surprise to learn that head chef, Eric Frechon, not only boasts three Michelin stars, but also the Légion d’Honneur.

I have never had – I’ve never even seen – Bresse chicken poached in an inflated pig’s bladder before, but nor have I ever eaten chicken so succulent, so flavoursome, so creamy and so downright moreish. All I needed was a fork for the breast and its accompanying asparagus, freshwater crayfish and morel mushrooms, so tender was it. Oh, and a spoon for the subsequent soup, made from the wondrous fowl’s legs, wings and oysters.

This remarkable dish did cost a terrifying €240 for two, but it was extravagantly, gorgeously, lip-smackingly delicious. As, indeed, were our starters of macaroni stuffed with black truffle, artichoke and duck foie gras (€85) and king crab with green tomato aspic (€78). Cheese and puddings, too, were exceptional.

The sommelier chose our wines and instead of the expected top-price cru classé claret or Burgundy we were recommended some fascinating and tasty dry and sweet wines of the Jura.

Le Restaurant Gastronomique is absurdly, eye-wateringly expensive but it is once-in-a-lifetime stuff and worth every bloody penny.