Scoff out | 25 June 2011

LE RESTAURANT GASTRONOMIQUE Hotel Le Bristol, 112 Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris. +33 (0)1 53 43 43 00 lebristolparis.com by Jonathan Ray


Hotel Le Bristol’s Restaurant Gastronomique is a swanky spot and no mistake. It’s all thick-carpeted, wood-panelled splendour, with a regiment of waiters per table and a touch too much one-two-three-and-off-with-the-cloche for my taste, but please, please don’t be put off, for the food here is outstanding with a capital O.

It’s President Sarkozy’s favourite spot (the Elysée Palace is almost next door), and it’s no surprise to learn that head chef, Eric Frechon, not only boasts three Michelin stars, but also the Légion d’Honneur.

I have never had – I’ve never even seen – Bresse chicken poached in an inflated pig’s bladder before, but nor have I ever eaten chicken so succulent, so flavoursome, so creamy and so downright moreish. All I needed was a fork for the breast and its accompanying asparagus, freshwater crayfish and morel mushrooms, so tender was it.