Scoff out

KOPAPA CAFÉ AND RESTAURANT 32-34 Monmouth Street Seven Dials WC2H 9HA 020 7240 6076 by Will Vaughan

Covent Garden and Leicester Square has long been a restaurant-goer’s no-man’s land. That is, until now, because fusion supremo Peter Gordon has opened Kopapa, situated conveniently on Monmouth Street, moments from the Donmar and the Royal Opera House.

Kopapa is a buzzy place full of international types who are unlikely to be fazed by a menu peppered with such curiosities as almond skordalia, or coconut and gapi salad. There are ‘Quick bites’ to whet the appetite like smoky babaganoush and olives, steamed edamame and grilled chorizo.

My companion and I selected four of the small tapas plates, signature features of Gordon’s menu. Char-grilled aubergine with tamarind caramel, coriander, pickled ginger & za’atar (£5.60) was squishy and moreish with a good balance between sweet and savoury elements. Sesame-infused tuna tartare (£6.00) was less good, the fish being minced and rather slippery-tasting, and suffered from bearing an unfortunate resemblance to the aubergine dish that had been such a success.