Melanie McDonagh Melanie McDonagh

Scents and nonsense

Why are traditional, natural perfume ingredients such as lemon and basil being restricted or even banned?

issue 11 December 2010

Christmas is coming, so that means presents. And for lots of us, that means scent. Some of the hopeful donors will be the sort to wander helplessly around a fragrance department, bewildered by choice until they seize, in desperation, on the stuff that looks nicely packaged. That was the route whereby my father once bought my mother some pleasing aftershave.

Others will know exactly what they’re after: the scent their womenfolk have always liked, the perfume their own mothers used to wear. Which is dandy: some of the most beautiful and original perfumes have been with us for decades, a century even.

But it’s an illusion to think that what we’re buying is the same scent as Coco Chanel et al used to wear. What we’ve got now is a 21st-century version of the originals. Many will be perfectly good versions, just not the same. In some cases, it is a matter of adapting to changing tastes.

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