Deborah Ross

Restaurants | 4 November 2006

Look, first off I’d just like to say that what follows has nothing to do with not being either hip or edgy.

issue 04 November 2006

Look, first off I’d just like to say that what follows has nothing to do with not being either hip or edgy.

Look, first off I’d just like to say that what follows has nothing to do with not being either hip or edgy. I am hip and edgy. Some days I’m so hip and edgy that’s all there is to me: hip and edge. ‘Wow, look at the hip and edge on that,’ people have even been known to gasp when I pass them in the street. I just wanted to get this absolutely straight so you wouldn’t think I just wasn’t hip or edgy enough for his week’s restaurant; that I failed it rather than the other way around. That would be preposterous. You can say what you like about me, but you can’t say I’m neither hip nor edgy. No way.

Now, the restaurant is Bacchus on Hoxton Street, which is either the back end of Islington or the top end of Shoreditch, depending which way you come at it. I can’t recall which way I came at it now, but you can be sure that I came at it in a very hip and edgy way. Anyway, according to the restaurant’s press release, this area ‘became famous for playing host to the Brit-Pack era of British artists such as Tracey Emin and Damien Hirst in the late 1990s’. So, its hip and edgy credentials are good. That’s a relief. True, I haven’t bought any art myself since my local Athena closed down, but what can I say? I’ve just been so, so busy!

Bacchus used to be a smelly old boozer — I was going to add ‘some of us still are’ until I remembered how hip and edgy I am — but it has lately been taken over and relaunched as a ‘molecular’ gastropub featuring ‘sous-vide’ cooking.

GIF Image

You might disagree with half of it, but you’ll enjoy reading all of it

TRY 3 MONTHS FOR $5
Our magazine articles are for subscribers only. Start your 3-month trial today for just $5 and subscribe to more than one view

Comments

Join the debate for just £1 a month

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for £3.

Already a subscriber? Log in