Olivia Potts Olivia Potts

Potato crisps and the British character

Natalie Whittle portrays Britain as nation of crisp-lovers – with silly shapes appealing to our sense of humour, and Marmite and prawn cocktail flavours to our obsession with nostalgia

Credit: Alamy 
issue 12 October 2024

Pickled fish. Lemon tea. Cucumber. Doner kebab. Stewed beef noodles. Salted egg. Soft shell crab. Coney island mustard. Smoked gouda. Hamburger seasoning. Honey butter. Roasted garlic oyster. Spicy crayfish. Finger-licking braised pork. Sesame sauce hotpot. Rose petal. Numb and spicy hotpot. Roasted fish. Blueberry.

The world of crisps has changed almost unrecognisably since the snack was first commercially produced in the early 20th century. Now the possibilities are enough to make the head spin. In Crunch, Natalie Whittle takes us on a whistlestop tour of the flavours we can now find across the world. The mind-boggling list gives an idea of the scope of this seemingly simple snack that goes far beyond the humble cheese and onion.

Whittle, a writer and editor at the Financial Times, whose previous book examined the idea of the 15-minute city, has chosen a subject that may initially seem unworthy. But by giving this ‘supremely ordinary’ snack space and attention, she reveals as much about us as crisp-eaters as about the product itself.

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