Stanley Johnson

Peloponnese: Return ticket

Stanley Johnson reaches a destination he’s had in mind for more than 50 years

issue 28 July 2012

I first visited the Peloponnese in the spring of 1959, at the beginning of my gap year. I was 18. Having been accepted for university as a classicist, I decided I might as well combine business and pleasure by visiting the great sites of the Mycenaean era before going on to my studies. It was mind-blowing. Olympia, Argos, Tiryns, Mycenae! I went from place to place with the Oxford edition of Homer’s Odyssey weighing down my rucksack, and  each day brought a new revelation. 

But I had to leave out the great Palace of Nestor near Pylos on that first peregrination through the Peloponnese. The buses didn’t seem to go that way. And a year wasn’t long enough to do and see everything. After Greece, I planned to visit Turkey and then, if funds permitted, South America. Nestor’s Palace would have to wait till another time.

Well, I waited over 50 years and still hadn’t made a clear plan.

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