Simon Hoggart

October Mini-Bar

This month’s mini-bar is from the estimable Yapp Bros, who specialise in fossicking out first-rate wines, often from small vineyards, in the Loire and the Rhône. These are subtle and sophisticated bottles — serious wines some might say — which you will not find in supermarkets. Nor offered by those allegedly value firms that sell vast quantities of mediocre booze at knockdown prices. If you see a wine advertised at £4.95 a bottle, reduced from £7.50, believe me you’ll be lucky if it’s even worth £4.95. And Yapp’s have kindly knocked £1 a bottle off every selection which, with free delivery, makes for a handsome saving.

St Pourçain is in the geographical centre of France, but part of the Loire classification. I thought this Cuvée Printanière 2012 (1) was absolutely delicious — smooth, packed with fruit, with the obscure Trésallier grape adding flowery freshness to the Chardonnay. Locals sometimes add a dash of crème de myrtilles — blueberry syrup — but tasty as that must be, I don’t see the need.

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