Simon Hoggart

November Mini-Bar

Graham Mitchell, who calls himself the Wine Explorer, comes from one of England’s leading wine families. His great-grandfather had a watering hole in Fleet Street, and wanted to be Lord Mayor of London. But they told him that nobody who had his name over a pub could rise to an office of such magnificence, so he renamed the bar El Vino, after his sherry-importing business. He got the gig. Now with several branches, it is still owned and run by the family. One sprog leapt for freedom; Graham’s brother Andrew was the Chief Whip who resigned over ‘plebgate’.

Now Graham has come up with a Christmas case which demonstrates his ability to spot high quality wines others have missed. All are discounted. Take the Crémant de Bourgogne Blush (NV) from the celebrated Lamblin family (1). This is a pink Champagne in all but name, made on the edge of Chablis in the traditional fashion.

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