Tanya Gold Tanya Gold

Notting Hill misanthropy

issue 23 February 2019

A serious restaurant for serious times: the Ledbury in Notting Hill. It’s a good time to do it, as the dreams of the Notting Hill set crumple to dust and Jacob Rees-Mogg rides out in his stupid hats.

It has sat in its former pub on Ledbury Road since 2005. It won — and has held for seven years — two Michelin stars. It has featured in the gruesome S. Pellegrino World’s 50 Best Restaurants List, which is, among other things, a rebuke to tap water.

Its most interesting moment was during the riots of 2011, when the nation conspired to make David Cameron return from his summer holidays early.

Annoying David Cameron is always fun, because he takes himself very seriously. I once asked him what his favourite supermarket is, and he said, very slowly: ‘Not Waitrose.’

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