Notes on....Walking in the Scottish Highlands

The simplest and best way to get straight to the heart of the Highlands from London is by sleeper. Board in Euston, have a plate of haggis and tatties (and perhaps a nip of whisky to knock you out) and before you know it, you’ll wake up the next morning as the train crosses Rannoch Moor. Don’t think about the fact that the train line is effectively floating on a bed of earth and tree roots, since the peat soil was too soft to support its weight. Admire the view — and keep your eyes peeled for the red deer who congregate along the line.

Stepping off at Fort William, you’d be forgiven for being unimpressed by your choice of destination: you emerge into a Morrisons car park. But look behind you and you’ll remember your reason for being there: Ben Nevis soars dramatically upwards, often with its peak hidden by a splodge of cloud.