Olivia Potts

No Christmas turkey? No problem

  • From Spectator Life
(Photo: Getty)

According to recent reports, we might be looking down the sharp end of a turkey-less Christmas. Kate Martin of the Traditional Farm Fresh Turkey Association has warned that a lack of European farmhands means that Britain could be facing a turkey shortage this December.

Turkeys have been synonymous with British Christmas dinners since the Victorian era; what do we do without them? For many, this won’t be too much of a loss: a lot of people actively dislike turkey (although they dislike it even more when you tell them that’s just because they’re not cooking it properly). I confess, I’m a turkey evangelist: I love turkey. I think it’s juicy and full of flavour, and makes fantastic leftovers. But, I’m always willing to branch out, and try something a little different – and I’m not averse to the idea that there might be alternatives for the festive table. And as long as there’s stuffing, gravy, and some really good roast potatoes, you won’t catch me complaining. Turkeys might just be for Christmas, but Christmas isn’t just for turkey: here are some of my top suggestions.

The clear, if old-fashioned, alternative to turkey is goose. A staple of the Christmas table since the Elizabethan era, it has more going for it than simple tradition. It’s a grand and beautiful showstopper. But almost more importantly, goose guarantees you the absolute best roast potatoes. As the goose cooks, its fat cooks out: goose fat has great flavour, but also a very high smoking point, meaning you can get the fat screamingly hot before adding the potatoes, which will help you achieve the ultimate potato goal of crispy exterior and fluffy interior.

I’d always thought of ham as a Boxing Day staple, often served as cold cuts alongside pickles and cheese, or in sandwiches.

Olivia Potts
Written by
Olivia Potts
Olivia Potts is a former criminal barrister who retrained as a pastry chef. She co-hosts The Spectator’s Table Talk podcast and writes Spectator Life's The Vintage Chef column. A chef and food writer, she was winner of the Fortnum and Mason's debut food book award in 2020 for her memoir A Half Baked Idea.

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