David Blackburn

My own private craft beer World Cup

The big brands are harder to beat than you might think

[Photo by FPG/Getty Images] 
issue 28 June 2014

11 p.m., Saturday 14 June. Football fans gather before the TV in anticipation of England vs Italy. There is quiet, save for the click and hiss of fresh lagers being opened. Football and beer are indivisible.

The football was forgettable, and so — in most cases — was the lager. When was the last time you guzzled Carlstellabourg and were conscious of taste? You drink lager without noticing it.

Craft beer is another matter. You can’t help but notice it — and not always in a good way, as a panel of eight seasoned drinkers discovered on the night of the England-Italy game. While waiting for kick-off, they worked their way through 15 British craft beers, and marked each against their ideal branded lager. The panel gave two scores: one for taste, the other for bottle design.

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