Frank Armstrong

Mountain miracles

Welsh lamb is as rich and memorable as the green and windswept landscape in which it thrives. Frank Armstrong puts on his walking boots to find out more

issue 09 April 2011

Lamb is a foodstuff intimately connected with Wales. Long subjected to cheap humour, Welsh farmers are now enjoying the last laugh: since 2006, the European Union has conferred on Wales the distinction of a Protected Geographical Indication (PGI), making it the equal of products such as Parma ham.

So when the opportunity arose for me to learn about different aspects of its production, it was too good to miss: and first, I decided to acquaint myself with its terroir by climbing Mount Snowdon.

A blustery Friday morning seemed an unlucky day to climb one of the highest mountains in Britain, but I trusted in a favourable weather forecast which, for once, was not mistaken. Along the way there was plenty of evidence of the foodstuff-in-waiting which I had come to investigate. Perched precariously on the mountainside, many fine specimens were developing the muscle tone and enjoying the wholesome grasses that were responsible for securing that top European designation.

Comments

Join the debate for just $5 for 3 months

Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for $5.

Already a subscriber? Log in