Olivia Potts

Mince, glorious mince

[Natasha Lawson] 
issue 16 November 2024

Sometimes, when it comes to culinary history, Britain is its own worst enemy. For a long time, British food has been seen as a joke among other nations, but also nearer to home. Even when the dishes are near indistinguishable, we’re still happy to poke fun at our own fare: we love panna cotta but laugh at blancmange; we cringe at stew but revere boeuf Bourguignon. They’re the same, but that doesn’t stop us.

Where better to showcase the unsung hero braised beef mince than in a beautiful short-crust pie?

Mince gets the worst of our inward-turned opprobrium, a leitmotif in our national food anthem. A pot of stewed mince speaks to all that is wrong with British food: staid, bland, brown, probably overcooked and definitely stuck in the 1950s. Even in the age of slow food and whole-food movements, the world scoffs at Britain’s slow-cooked, whole-food favourite.

In 2017, British readers lost their minds when American food website Eater listed ‘mince on toast’ as a quintessentially British dish.

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Olivia Potts
Written by
Olivia Potts
Olivia Potts is a former criminal barrister who retrained as a pastry chef. She co-hosts The Spectator’s Table Talk podcast and writes Spectator Life's The Vintage Chef column. A chef and food writer, she was winner of the Fortnum and Mason's debut food book award in 2020 for her memoir A Half Baked Idea.

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