Kit Wilson

Michael Seresin – from film noir to pinot noir

The cinematographer and winemaker on seeking vintages with ‘deeper shadows’

issue 06 December 2014

Michael Seresin claims, rather modestly, to ‘have no palate’, choosing instead to describe wine with light, colour and form. These are not your typical winemaker’s terms, but they make perfect sense given his unusual back story.
Born and raised in New Zealand, Seresin emigrated to Europe in 1966 to pursue a career in cinematography. Movie buffs will know what happened next — Seresin, in his own words, ‘did really well, really quickly’, making a name for himself with a series of Alan Parker flicks: Bugsy Malone, Midnight Express, Fame. It was during this period that he leased a house in Italy — still his ‘favourite country in the world’ — and fell in love with wine.

‘We were surrounded by winemaking families, many of whom had been there for generations — I really loved the cultural life round there. That’s what made me think there was something magical about growing grapes.’ Many of Seresin’s neighbouring vintners were also skilled musicians and painters and, inspired by the seamless blend of winemaking and the arts, he briefly considered setting up stall in Italy. ‘But then I thought, I’m not a businessman — I’m just not smart enough.’

He eventually decided to buy a small pocket of land — around 70 hectares — in the Wairau Valley back in New Zealand. The first vines were planted in 1992, and the Seresin Estate’s first vintage was bottled four years later.

Today, the company comprises three vineyards — the original one, ‘Home’, Raupo Creek and Tatou — totalling 160 hectares, roughly the same area as Regent’s Park. All three are certified organic and biodynamic, and tended to by hand. They grow vegetables and olive trees alongside the grapes and keep livestock — ‘we’re fully self-contained’, Seresin says.

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