Simon Hoggart

MARCH WINE CLUB

<span class="art-body">This month’s offer includes great classics, together with wines that may be unfamiliar but live up to Berry Brothers' high standards</span>

issue 25 March 2006

This month’s offer includes great classics, together with wines that may be unfamiliar but live up to Berry Brothers’ high standards

I love to visit Berry Bros. & Rudd’s shop at the bottom of St James’s Street, London. In the window there might be a few choice bottles â” a Methuselah of Château d’Yquem sticks in the mind â” but indoors there is nothing so vulgar as merchandise. Instead there are sloping desks reminiscent of a Victorian accountant’s, and here you may discuss your oenophilic needs. Creaking stairs and corridors lead to small rooms containing a selection of the finest clarets and burgundies behind locked glass, like Ming vases or Fabergé eggs. There are private chambers in which you might see a Domaine de la Romanée Conti, or a Petrus of a particularly good year, all dusty, all empty, as if you had missed the most amazing party by only a decade or so.

This month’s offer includes great classics, together with wines that may be unfamiliar, but which carry on Berry Brothers’ tradition of selling only wines that they feel match the standards they have set over the past 300 years.

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