Marble cake: why this retro bake deserves a revival

Marble cakes are a simple concept, but such a satisfying bake, with that delightful reveal when you cut into the cake and expose the hidden pattern. They are made by dividing the base cake batter, and adding colouring or flavouring to one part of it, and then mottled by dolloping light and dark batter alternately into the same cake tin. They were a feature of my childhood, but feel a little passé now, which is a shame, as they’re well worth your baking energies. I think it’s time to bring them back.

Now, many marble cake recipes will simply use a basic pound cake recipe, and introduce a couple of tablespoons of cocoa powder to half of the batter. A pound cake recipe is an extremely useful one to have up your sleeve, but, for me, it isn’t the perfect cake recipe – and the cocoa powder doesn’t go far enough for me to create a flavour contrast. So this recipe is based on an old, vanilla buttermilk cake that I’ve been making for years: as well as the tang of the buttermilk softening the sugar content, it’s ridiculously moist and keeps extremely well (it should last a week in an airtight container, without becoming dry or stale). Similarly, the melted chocolate in the darker batter brings richness and depth of flavour. No dry or bland cakes here.

I’ve gone for, really, the most basic of flavour combinations: vanilla and chocolate, but naturally, you are not restricted to this combination. As long as you maintain a colour contrast between the two sponges, the world is your oyster. Coffee replaces the chocolate, and malt, tahini or white chocolate would be great for the paler colour. Or move away from the 70s brown, and plump for pistachio green, raspberry pink, blackberry purple, or mango orange to create your contrast.