Jon Jolliffe

Man’s true best friend

In his engaging farming memoir, Philip Walling describes a monstrous Dutch experiment, in which lack of cultivation led to cattle starving to death

issue 08 September 2018

This unusual book begins with an account of the author’s ten-year love affair with dairy farming and an attempt ‘to give a flavour of what our cattle do for us’. It then turns into a survey of the various British breeds of cattle.

After poor A-levels, Philip Walling took odd jobs in his native Cumbria, such as building dry-stone walls, until he managed to acquire a small farm of his own. With great determination, he ran this single-handed, keeping both beef and dairy animals and raising poultry and a couple of pigs. They were, in retrospect at least, ‘ten years of almost undimmed joy’. But aged 30, discouraged by the daily grind, which included a milk round, and feeling he had missed out on a proper education, he gave it all up.

The story of cows is one of the oldest in the world. Even before the flood, Jabal, the son of Lamech, was ‘the father of such as have cattle’, and later, when Abraham went into Egypt to escape famine, he became ‘very rich in cattle’, with herdsmen to look after them. Skipping the centuries down to recent times, in 1946 there were 200,000 individual dairy farmers in Britain selling through the Milk Marketing Board, but by 2016 these had dwindled to 9,500; and although the number of cows nationwide had fallen from 2.5 million to 1.5 million in 2016, milk production increased by a third.

Walling quotes many other statistics, which are sometimes heavy-going for non-farmers, but he adds lively details from his own hard-won experience of the general friendliness of the farming community (though there are exceptions, and stories of sharp practice).

He refers to most of the principal breeds; Shorthorns, ‘the Black and White Revolution’, Herefords, Red Devons, the Channel Island breeds and the black cattle of Scotland, Aberdeen Angus and Galloways.

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