Jeremy Clarke Jeremy Clarke

Low life | 24 May 2018

She eyed the mounted lance men with justifiable disquiet and shrank a little in her seat

issue 26 May 2018

Six Partido de Resina (formerly Pablo Romero) bulls for Rafaelillo, Thomas Dufau and Juan Leal. The first corrida of the week-long Nîmes feria. I haven’t seen a bullfight for 15 years; Catriona never. Catriona dislikes cruelty, but was persuaded to try to understand what those who defend the Spanish bullfight actually like about it.

At Nîmes, the bullfights are held in the arena of a Roman amphitheatre. We sat in the cheapest, uppermost tier on a row of cut stone blocks. From there we could see over the rim of the amphitheatre across the city rooftops to the hills beyond. You could smoke up there and we had carried our plastic cups of sweet white wine from the bar below. We each had tied around our necks a cheap, blood-red bull feria neckerchief, bought on a festive impulse from a souvenir stall outside the amphitheatre about five minutes earlier.

The most sensational moment of a bullfight, to my mind, is when the first bull comes galloping out of the gate and into the ring.

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