London’s best Indian restaurants

One of the great sorrows of the pandemic has been India. Its own harrowing experience of the virus has been dreadful to see. And less importantly but still poignantly, India’s disappearance from the list of possible destinations for travel for the foreseeable future has created a sense of morose yearning among those itching to get back. So long as we’re barred from going, London is perhaps the best city on earth to recreate some of the finest ambience, tastes and smells of the subcontinent and with that in mind I set out to experience the best of India through a clutch of sophisticated restaurants only a Tube ride away.

Gykmkhana, 42 Albemarle St, Mayfair

No stroll through the best Indian cuisine in London is complete without dinner at this rollicking Michelin-starred outpost. Gymkhana openly models itself on the ‘elite clubs of India where members of high society socialise, eat, drink, and play sport’.