Rose Prince

Lockdown creations: the best of the year’s cookery books reviewed

Nigel Slater, Yotam Ottolenghi and Ollie Dabbous are among those featured in Rose Prince’s round-up

Nigel Slater’s smoked mackerel pie. From A Cook’s Book (Fourth Estate, £30). Credit: Jonathan Lovekin 
issue 27 November 2021

‘I may, one day, stop making notes and writing down recipes,’ Nigel Slater says in A Cook’s Book (Fourth Estate, £30). Please don’t. This is his 16th book and his writing feels as fresh as it ever did. I remember cutting out his recipes from Elle Magazine three decades ago, and I do not believe he has ever put pen to paper without wanting his ideas to work for others. Mountains of good food must have been set on tables and shared by people as a result, because Slater is a master of his trade. ‘A recipe must work. Otherwise, what’s the point?’ he says.

Quite; though a cynic would add that the genre is full of recipes that either don’t work or never quite resemble the glories of a book’s images. A Cook’s Book is a gift to a novice, as well as a reminder to a seasoned, even tired, cook of what it is all about.

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