Letter from Donetsk: peace, with missile attacks

For what is technically peacetime, there’s a lot of shelling going on round here. Donetsk airport is still held by the Ukrainian army and the rebels of the Donetsk People’s Republic bombard it furiously every day. The Ukrainians reply by lobbing back artillery shells and Grad missiles. Both sides bristle with anti-tank and anti-aircraft missiles, so the war is a static one, fought by a series of artillery duels, first world war-style. Underneath the smart new airport built by Turks for the Euro 2012 championships is a warren of deep Soviet-era bunkers and tunnels, where the Ukrainian defenders retreat with their howitzers when the barrages get too heavy. Construct your own metaphor: deep, indestructible veins of the past lying underneath the fragile modernity of the present.

The Donetsk regional museum was hit by rocket fire in August, demolishing a wing and killing three people who were getting into a minibus nearby.