Lemon meringue pie: a bright pudding for dark days

I often find myself turning to lemon-filled recipes in January. I think it’s something my baking subconscious realises before I do – that cold, dark days require the antithesis, something bright and bold, something cheering. You know what they say: when life gives you lemons, make lemon meringue pie. 

Unlike its austere, pared back French cousin, the tarte au citron, the lemon meringue pie is never going to be a subtle pudding: a lurid, chartreuse centre hidden by big billows of toasted meringue, piled ludicrously, disproportionately, toweringly tall. It quivers and wobbles on the plate, crisp and firm on the outer edge, giving way to a marshmallowy interior. But that’s the point isn’t it? It isn’t sophisticated or chic or cool. It’s fun, and God, couldn’t we all do with a bit of fun right now? 

The filling isn’t quite a curd, although it looks like one. Instead, a slurry is made with the lemon juice, water, sugar and cornflour, and brought to the boil to cook out the cornflour and thicken the mixture.