Fortnum & Mason has its own range of wines, and as you would expect, they are very good indeed. These are not simple house wines, trading under an anonymous label; they are selected by Fortnum’s chief buyer, Tim French, as the best example he can find of each type of wine. As well as the F&M imprimateur on the label, you’ll find details of who made the wine, how they made it, and where. They are not cheap, but they range from very good indeed to stunning. And, as an introduction to Spectator readers, Tim has discounted them all. Two are somewhat pricier than usual, so there is a pair of sample cases, regular and luxury.
First is a Muscadet sur Lie from Luneau 2005 (1). Muscadet can be somewhat flavour-free, but leaving it on its lees adds much to the body and depth. This has that characteristic silky, oystery, crisp fresh taste. Perfect with any kind of seafood, or as a summery aperitif. Just £5.95.
The F&M New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc 2006 (2) is from Martinborough, less well known than Marlborough, but in many ways more sophisticated. There is a subtlety about this wine, slightly less in-your-face than many Kiwi Sauvignons, but with the style and grace and balance of a traditional Sancerre. A great treat, reduced to £8.71.
Gosh, it’s hard to sell German wines now. Memories of Blue Nun and fluids that taste of sherbet dabs linger on the palate. And the labels don’t help. All I can say is, please try the Silvaner Escherndorfer Lump Spätlese 2005 (3) made by Horst Sauer — in spite of all those words. It comes in the famous squat ‘Bocksbeutel’ bottle, it is bone dry, and it’s lovely.
Comments
Join the debate for just £1 a month
Be part of the conversation with other Spectator readers by getting your first three months for £3.
UNLOCK ACCESS Just £1 a monthAlready a subscriber? Log in