JULY WINE CLUB

Fortnum & Mason has its own range of wines, and as you would expect, they are very good indeed. These are not simple house wines, trading under an anonymous label; they are selected by Fortnum’s chief buyer, Tim French, as the best example he can find of each type of wine. As well as the F&M imprimateur on the label, you’ll find details of who made the wine, how they made it, and where. They are not cheap, but they range from very good indeed to stunning. And, as an introduction to Spectator readers, Tim has discounted them all. Two are somewhat pricier than usual, so there is a pair of sample cases, regular and luxury.

First is a Muscadet sur Lie from Luneau 2005 (1). Muscadet can be somewhat flavour-free, but leaving it on its lees adds much to the body and depth. This has that characteristic silky, oystery, crisp fresh taste.