Jeremy Clarke Jeremy Clarke

Is my phobia of upmarket restaurants misplaced?

For all its art and famous clientele, the Colombe d’Or is no more than an upmarket canteen

Yves Montand and Simone at la Colombe d'Or in 1962. Photo by Giancarlo BOTTI/Gamma-Rapho/Getty Images 
issue 26 September 2020

Scotching my bright idea of a stiff gin for Dutch courage in the bar across the road, Catriona bounded straight for the door of the Colombe d’Or. My restaurant phobia was fast upon me and I followed her into the bourgeois holy of holies more slowly than a nudist climbing through a barbed wire fence.

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