Inside Russia

Churchill described Russia as a ‘riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma’.

Churchill described Russia as a ‘riddle wrapped in a mystery inside an enigma’. He was referring to the Soviet Union, all eight million square miles of it. Slightly reduced, the Russian Federation now stretches to just over six and a half million square miles, but her enigmatic allure remains strong, and if anything has been intensified by the Litvinenko poisoning and a refreezing of post-Cold War relations.

Churchill was right, because Russia is exciting, but sometimes very confusing for the visitor: walking past the psychedelic peaks of St Basil’s in Moscow or the glittering imperial splendour of another palace in St Petersburg can leave you with an uncomfortable impression that there exists a whispered world of past intrigue and infinite tsarists’ wealth, just beyond your reach. Bypassing the tourists is possible, but expensive: an early trip round the Hermitage might cost £900 for a group of up to 25; visiting special rooms in the Kremlin costs about £900 but again can be shared by a big group.