Ysenda Maxtone Graham

I’m being priced out of eating out

issue 28 May 2022

I used to be able to afford to go to restaurants. Yes, it was a treat, but it was just about doable, and though it was never a pleasure to be presented with the bill, it didn’t leave you reeling from shock and buyer’s remorse.

The schnitzel in my favourite London restaurant has gone up from £12 to £20 for the small one and from £22 to £33 for the normal-sized one. Meanwhile, restaurants and pubs all over Britain no longer offer a mere hamburger. It has to be called a ‘short rib and flank burger, smoked Applewood Cheddar, shallot marmalade, garlic aioli and skin-on fries’ to justify its £17.50 price tag.

Recently, I foolishly ordered a cheese soufflé before I realised it costs £27 (or ‘27’ as they put it on menus these days, leaving out the pound sign to disguise the fact that this is a rash financial transaction).

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