Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

If it’s good enough for Dom Perignon, it’s good enough for me!

We had a fine Spectator Winemaker Dinner just before Christmas, hosted by the inimitable Richard Geoffroy, Chef de Cave at the equally inimitable Dom Pérignon.

Richard brought with him ample amounts of his spectacular fizz: the 2005, the 2004 Rosé and the P2 1998. We ate and drank royally and there wasn’t a person there who wasn’t seduced by the magic of Dom Pérignon. It might not be as exclusive and as rare as Moët & Chandon (whose prestige cuvée it is) would have us believe, but my goodness it’s a belter, up there with the very, very finest.

Richard insists that his champagne be served from red wine glasses. He believes the saucer or wide-brimmed coupe, supposedly modelled on the breasts of Marie Antoinette, allows the bubble to dissipate far too quickly while the more traditional narrow flute can make a wine taste too lean and mean.

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