The wines of Tokaji run like a golden thread through Hungarian history. There are references to their nectar-like quality in the Hungarian national anthem. Imperial Tokaji, the world’s sweetest wine, has always been prized. As its name implies, much of it found its way to the Habsburgs’ cellars. Emperors often used it as birthday or Christmas presents for fellow monarchs. So I was delighted to taste some non-imperial bottles over dinner at the Hungarian embassy, courtesy of that impressive fellow Kristóf Szalay–Bobrovniczky, the ambassador, a good friend of President Orbán’s. Mr Orbán is much demonised. Along with President Trump and Brexit, he is seen to be a threat to the Fifth International: the pseudo-liberal bureaucratic one. That apart, he cannot be accused of resembling Mr Trump.
At times, Hungarian democracy may have a rough edge: can anyone name a single infant democracy in which that was not the case? From the Turkish victory at Mohács to the glorious uprising in 1956 — and beyond — Hungary was often embattled and frequently oppressed.
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