Olivia Potts

Hummingbird cake: a bake from America’s Deep South

  • From Spectator Life

I’d always assumed that the hummingbird’s cake derived its name from its unapologetic sweetness: a cake so singing with fruit juice and soft caramelly sugar that it charms the (humming)birds from the trees. The origins may in fact be more prosaic: originally called the Doctor Bird cake, it was named after the national symbol of Jamaica, a type of hummingbird, only found on the island, and it first came to fame outside of Jamaica thanks to a bit of a PR stunt. It was a marketing tool, really: one of a number of recipes exported by the Jamaican Tourist Board in 1968 in little press packs sent to the USA. But the cake itself and choice of name must have come from somewhere before the Jamaicans sent the banana-pineapple cake to the yanks, so I like to imagine that its nectar-sweetness had a part to play.

I’m not sure how successful the mail-out was in terms of promoting Jamaican-US relations, but it was pretty effective in endearing the cake to the Americans.

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Olivia Potts
Written by
Olivia Potts
Olivia Potts is a former criminal barrister who retrained as a pastry chef. She co-hosts The Spectator’s Table Talk podcast and writes Spectator Life's The Vintage Chef column. A chef and food writer, she was winner of the Fortnum and Mason's debut food book award in 2020 for her memoir A Half Baked Idea.

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