How to make the most of Basel’s spectacular artistic delights

Standing on the quayside beside the River Rhine, gazing at the happy teenagers swimming in the dark water down below, I wonder where the last forty years have gone. Forty years ago, I was one of those teenage swimmers, swept along by the fierce current through the centre of this ancient city. Now, half a lifetime later, I’m one of the watchers on the shore. No matter. Switzerland’s most stylish city is always full of interest, whether you’re a participant or a spectator, and this week it plays host to the most prestigious art fair in the world.

On the face of it, Art Basel sounds like just another boring trade fair – posh art dealers selling pretentious artworks to filthy rich collectors – but there’s more to it than that. Unlike a lot of other art fairs, Art Basel is the focal point for all sorts of activities around town, from major shows in museums and galleries to pop-up exhibitions in its streets and parks.