Melanie McDonagh

How to make Irish barm brack

This fruited loaf is a staple of Irish Halloween celebrations

  • From Spectator Life
(iStock)

Those of us who grew up with a traditional Halloween, that is to say, in Ireland, don’t have much truck with the contemporary version. The pumpkin-coloured, gore and chocolate fest that has come to Britain via the US is gross by comparison; we had a simple version. We dressed up, but in masks and any old clothes we could lay our hands on. We had nuts and apples for bobbing, not chocolate in the shape of severed fingers. We went from house to house looking for a penny for the bobbin’, not trick or treating. And the thing you really looked forward to was barm brack.

Halloween was a time for ghosts, not chainsaw massacres

It’s actually a fruited, not too sweet yeast loaf, which is really good buttered, and if a bit stale, toasted and buttered. Halloween was a time for ghosts, not chainsaw massacres. And the custom of harmless divination associated with the feast of the dead is perpetuated in the ring you still find inside Irish bracks.

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