Jonathan Ray Jonathan Ray

How to celebrate in style

iStock 
issue 09 March 2024

It was Mrs Ray’s birthday the other day. Or rather it was what she now terms her birthday week – seven days during which flags fly, trumpets sound, corks pop and she can do no wrong.

I find it all quite exhausting. It’s not just the running up and down with cups of tea and gins and tonic, nor the plumping up of the sofa in preparation for another of her box sets, nor the cooking, it’s the firm ‘We have to/we can’t: it’s my birthday week’ that begins to pall.

Happily one of Mrs R’s demands is no chore: fine champagne, of which we drank gallons during the 168-hour celebrations.

Just when you think it’s all about ripe tropical fruit, a hint of citrus, herbs or even briny salt hits you

One of the very finest was Champagne Geoffroy ‘Expression’ Brut NV (1), a staple of Armit Wines, our partners this week. The Geoffroy family have grown grapes in the Marne Valley since the 17th century and made fine fizz since the 1950s.

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