Helen R Brown

Hornet highballs anyone?

So says the head of a leading sustainable food project. Bugs may be better than beef, but they’re not ‘the new food Messiah’

issue 17 June 2017

After school last Wednesday, I watched my five-year-old daughter pop a dead cricket on to her tongue and proclaim it: ‘Like fishy popcorn!’ ‘MMMm, delicious!’ squealed her friend, reaching for more as a third little girl spat hers, discreetly, back into her palm. ‘I’m getting pistachio,’ said the spitter’s mum, picking up the packet for closer scrutiny. I popped one into my own mouth and got stale, mealy, chewy: like a morsel of dusty, old crab-paste sandwich.

I bought the edible Acheta domesticus at my local farm shop. They were stacked, like a drinking bet, above the local gins under a sign reading: ‘Sharing for the Daring.’ Mealworms with Sesame and Cumin; Grasshoppers with Paprika and Crickets with Sweet Mango. Pretty pricey at £6.50 for 14g. Suburban Essex’s answer to TV’s Bush-tucker Trials and tabloid splashes about Angelina Jolie frying scorpions with her kids.

More seriously, entomophagy (eating insects) is often pitched to us as the sustainable protein source of the future.

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