Stephen Bayley

Grim, generous, decaying and hip: the paradoxical charms of Athens

Is a ‘new’ Athens emerging from the smog of ages and the rubble of a collapsed economy? Maybe…

issue 07 March 2015

My first visit to Athens as a student gave me a set of impressions that the present crisis has only validated. The man designated to meet us at the airport did not turn up. I will never forget his name. It was Nic Katsoudis. So we got in a taxi anyway. It crashed twice on the way to our apartment in the Vouliagmeni resort south of the city. Once inside, the plumbing was Periclean in age if not in grandeur.

That was when local colonels and not German bankers were the devil. Since then I have been back often, en route to my sister-in-law’s house on lovely, neglected Skopelos — an island not so much unspoilt as unimproved in the first place. Athens is where you change planes, get on a bus or find a boat.

At the end of last year, we stayed at the Grande Bretagne, the stately old lady on Syntagma Square.

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