Gordon Ramsay joins in the posh invasion of Battersea

London House is in Battersea, which some people call South Chelsea, but is more East Wandsworth to my mind; or maybe North Clapham, or, even better, West Brixton. This is the self-hatred that the housing bubble has brought to London: we have whole sorrowful postcodes that long to be something else because original posh London, which is SW1 and W1 and SW3, does not really exist any more, or rather it does, but it does not belong to us, so we might as well forget about it.

So we have London House. It was obviously a marketing essential to tag this restaurant to London, and also to mention houses, which now are unicorns of brick. The whole venture reeks of anxiety and it should — posh people now live in Battersea, swarming about in yellow corduroy trousers and matching hair, looking bewildered because Tooting is now a place with a name to them.