William Dalrymple

Goa’s two cultures

Away from the beach, says William Dalrymple, is a unique mix of Catholicism and Hinduism

issue 19 November 2011

The best view of the Goan coast can be seen from the topmost turret of the ruined Portuguese fort above Chapora. From the dark upper slopes of the Pernem hills down to the level ground of the coastline stretches mile upon mile of banana and coconut groves, the deep green of the palms offset by the white sand of the shore and the foam of the breaking rollers. In the palm groves you can just see the toddy tappers throwing ripe king coconuts down from the treetops. Further up the beach, lean fishermen are beaching their catamaran-canoes on the sandbanks. From these dugouts,a crocodile of women carry panniers of freshly caught fish to their huts.

Most people who come to Goa do so for the beaches and a bit of winter sun. The state has not only the best beaches in India but also some of the best beach hotels, such as the Taj Fort Aguada, built within the ruins of one of the most magnificent Portuguese forts.

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