Olivia Potts

Give vitello tonnato a chance

Credit: Natasha Lawson 
issue 21 September 2024

I am sure there are beloved British dishes that inspire horror in those from different cultures, that are truly unappealing to the uninitiated. I can quite imagine that the bright green eel-gravy that traditionally accompanies the East End pie and mash could be figuratively and literally hard to swallow for a visitor. Or that our predilection for Yorkshire puddings – glorified pancakes – on our very savoury roast dinners and a desire for strong cheese served with fruitcake make us seem as mad as a box of frogs.

Vitello tonnato might be called the original surf and turf. But it can be a hard sell

Which is why, despite the horrified faces of anyone I have described this recipe to over the past couple of weeks, I’m prepared to try to convince you that you – yes, you – will in fact love vitello tonnato, if you only give it a chance.

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Olivia Potts
Written by
Olivia Potts
Olivia Potts is a former criminal barrister who retrained as a pastry chef. She co-hosts The Spectator’s Table Talk podcast and writes Spectator Life's The Vintage Chef column. A chef and food writer, she was winner of the Fortnum and Mason's debut food book award in 2020 for her memoir A Half Baked Idea.

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