Gastro-nomics: a foodie’s guide to a changing world

Twice recently I’ve been asked my opinion of ‘Doughnut Economics’. The first time, I was tempted to cover my ignorance with a Johnsonian impromptu riff on supply-chain issues in the deep-fried batter sector. But sensing seriousness I steered off and googled the phrase later, so I was ready the second time to discuss Kate Raworth’s 2018 book of that title, about why we should abandon pursuit of GDP growth in favour of a gentler model in which we take better care of nature and each other — illustrated by her ‘doughnut of social and planetary boundaries’.

That’s a debate for another day, but what I really admire is the title itself, inviting readers to think about the changing world by way of sweetmeats: very much what this column tries to do in parables disguised as restaurant tips. Hoping to match Kate’s catchiness, I’ve decided to call my version ‘gastro-nomics’ and (with readers’ help) offer a global Christmas tour of good tables that highlight social change and entrepreneurial trends — starting, close to home, with optimism and resilience.