Olivia Potts

Galette des rois: a perfect epiphany pudding

  • From Spectator Life

There’s always a bit of a post-Christmas sag, isn’t there? The presents have been piled up but not actually put away yet, the tree is dropping needles like there’s no tomorrow, and those final bits and bobs of leftovers in the fridge aren’t looking terribly appealing (a weary parsnip and some withered peas do not a Christmas sandwich make).

So it’s no surprise that the French have made sure there’s something to look forward to before we pack away the festive season for another year: the galette des rois.

Named after the three kings of the nativity story, galettes des rois are traditionally eaten on 6 January, or Epiphany, the day that the magi were supposed to have visited Jesus in his stable. There are variations of Epiphany or twelfth night cake around the world, but the galette des roi is my favourite: a puff pastry tart with a frangipane filling, made of creamed sugar and butter, eggs, ground almonds, and a generous glug of rum. It is usually beautifully decorated with etchings made into the pastry and egg yolk glaze, big bold swoops, or geometric zig zags, that come to life as the pie bakes.

Traditionally, a fève (bean) or small porcelain figure (usually depicting the baby Jesus) would be placed in the pudding before baking, and whoever found the item in their portion would be crowned king or queen for the day. In France, bakers will even provide the actual crown that the victorious diner will receive – although I’m afraid here, you will have to fashion your own. Tradition further dictates that the youngest person partaking should sit under the table and announce recipients’ names as pieces are cut to prevent any skulduggery or manipulation of the hidden item – although surveys suggest that up to 70% of families swing it so that one of the children receive the fève and are duly crowned.

Olivia Potts
Written by
Olivia Potts
Olivia Potts is a former criminal barrister who retrained as a pastry chef. She co-hosts The Spectator’s Table Talk podcast and writes Spectator Life's The Vintage Chef column. A chef and food writer, she was winner of the Fortnum and Mason's debut food book award in 2020 for her memoir A Half Baked Idea.

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