Anne de Courcy

From Cleopatra to Elizabeth Taylor, women have found jewels irresistible

Helen Molesworth has produced a magnificent history of gemstones – their symbolism, provenance, and the legends surrounding the best ones

Elizabeth Taylor in Paris in 1968. [Getty Images] 
issue 25 May 2024

When workmen demolished an ancient building in Cheapside in 1912 they saw something glinting out of a broken wooden box. They had stumbled on what became known as the Cheapside Hoard – a collection of jewels dating from around 1600, its star, the Cheapside Emerald, a wonderful stone holding a miniature watch. It came from Colombia, still the source of the world’s finest emeralds, probably the world’s most ancient gems. The first recorded instance of them is on an Egyptian papyrus around 2400 BC. Their beauty and rarity made them the favourite of the élite, with Cleopatra probably their most famous fan. The Rockefeller Emerald fetched $5.5 million in 2017.

Helen Molesworth, now the senior jewellery curator at the Victoria and Albert Museum, after years spent as a jewellery expert for Sotheby’s and Christie’s auction houses, and a lecturer on gemology at Geneva University, has produced a magnificent compendium of everything one could ever want to know about jewels: their symbolism, physical construction, worth and history.

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